Mulhollow's Bistro 215 coming into its own

FORT WALTON BEACH – Mulhollow's Bistro 215 has been a popular spot for lunch and dinner in downtown Fort Walton Beach for years. In December there was a change of ownership. With that change, some things have changed, while others have stayed the same.

The food

The biggest change is to the food. The new owners of Mulhollow's have made the menu their own. That means that some long time favorites are no longer offered. But it also means there are new items to become favorites.

We had the best food of the evening, both in terms of value and quality, during the appetizer course. Our meal was off to an excellent start with the blackened potstickers and stuffed eggplant.

Our potstickers were elevated from standard fare by the addition of blackening seasoning for a good flavor punch, and a touch of crispness from pan-frying. They were served with sweet chili sauce on a bed of mixed greens.

Layers of perfectly fried eggplant contained a generous amount of ricotta cheese. The dish was topped with marinara and mozzarella before baking. It managed to be gooey and light at the same time.

Entrée salads include Asian Shrimp Salad, Thai Salmon Salad, a Caesar and a California Cobb. Our Thai Salmon Salad was very pretty, including a rose made from a beautiful deep red tomato. But there were some issues with it.

The fish was ordered medium rare (which was recommended). It was actually cooked past medium and developed a stronger flavor from the longer cooking time. There were large spears of carrot and celery that were difficult to cut with a dinner knife.

Strips of fried wontons stuck together during fying, making them tough instead of crisp. A sweet yeast roll serve alongside was not in keeping with a Thai dish, but it was tasty.

As with everything else on the menu, the entrees were plated beautifully. Grouper Florentine was a colorful plate with vegetables of red, yellow green and orange set off against the white fish and rice. The vegetables had the best flavor on the plate.

A lemon butter sauce on the fish didn’t have much flavor, but improved with the addition of juice from a lemon wedge served alongside. As with the salmon, the grouper was slightly overcooked, affecting the texture of the fish.

Other entrees include coconut shrimp, steak au poivre, chicken marsala and pasta primavera. Lunch at Mulhollow's is all about soup, salads and sandwiches. The salads are the same salads offered at dinner. Soup includes chicken and sausage gumbo and a daily soup special.

Most of the lunch menu is made up of sandwiches. A Reuben is served on grilled rye, just as it should be. There is an 8-ounce cheeseburger, chicken salad with grapes and walnuts, a fried shrimp poboy served as a wrap, and a club sandwich served on sourdough with cranberry mayonnaise.

Lunch at Mulhollow's is where to find the best value and, in general, the best food.

The atmosphere

The atmosphere at Mulhollow's has not changed. Lots of color gives a fun feel to the space. Dividers create different seating areas to add intimacy. The dividers also help contain some of the sound in the often lively dining room. Mulhollow's is a popular place to meet friends, and there are often groups of six or more, creating a boisterous mood.

The service

Service is another area that has not changed. Servers are friendly and knowledgeable.

Even with a busy dining room our server did a good job of spacing our courses and keeping drinks filled.

A final taste

When a restaurant you have enjoyed changes ownership it is always interesting to see what else changes. Mulhollow's’ new owners have kept the ambiance, and changed the food.

Lunch provides good value, while appetizers at dinner (and a good Key lime pie with a graham cracker-Oreo crust) are a step above the rest of the menu.

More changes are ahead, and it will be interesting to see the new version of Mulhollow's come into its own.