January 26, 2007
Cuvee Beach’s Lively Ambience Great for Groups
DESTIN – Restaurants have personalities.They can be many things from quiet and elegant to boisterous and fun. Cuvee Beach is definitely the latter.
Just inside the entrance of this beautiful restaurant, people gather at the bar for socializing. The convivial atmosphere, enhanced by the open kitchen, spills over into the main dining room.
The noise level can be high, and tables are closely spaced. On a recent evening, there were also a number of tables with small children adding to the activity.
Because of the atmosphere, Cuvee Beach is a great place to go with a group. If you are looking for a more intimate dining experience, ask to sit as far away from the center of the restaurant as possible. You still have the view, but it is quieter and more out of the way.
While the name of the establishment emphasizes good wine, the food is quite good as well. Dishes tend to be earthy and casual. Ingredients are of good quality, and there are specials that are designed to be paired with featured wines. On one visit we had a special that included a pair of perfectly prepared quail and tender greens.
We found good variety among the entrees, with more non-seafood items than usual in this area. Among the seafood choices were seared tuna, seafood pasta and a grouper special.
Meat dishes included grilled beef tenderloin (with blue mac-n-cheese) and an excellent rib eye. A double pork chop was served with peach chutney. Fowl included grilled duck with blueberry glaze, and pankocrusted free range chicken.
Interestingly, appetizers were all seafood. Even one of the salads included shrimp and crab meat. Everything we tried was delicious, but there was nothing for someone who doesn’t eat seafood.
Tangy Crispy Honey Glazed Shrimp was an outstanding choice. The shrimp were tender and the crisp and the Worcestershire-based sauce was delicious.
I also liked the Spicy Lemon and Fennel Calamari. The best part of it was the unusual battered fried lemon slices that provided wonderful crunch and a burst of bright flavor. The saffron aioli that was drizzled atop the calamari was a bit assertive and rich, and would have been more welcome served alongside.
Two salads started with good quality greens, and featured light and flavorful dressings. In describing the baby greens salad with sweet and spicy pecans and orange vinaigrette the menu did not mention that it would be topped with a generous amount of crumbled Feta cheese. I like the saltiness of Feta, but for those who don’t, it would be nice for the menu to mention that prominent addition.
Pizza is also offered at Cuvee Beach. Options include pesto chicken; shrimp and crab; Italian sausage and Margherita. Pizza is also offered on the kids’ menu.
Desserts were all excellent. I have always enjoyed the Ginger Crème Brulee, but found a new star with a piece of soft warm chocolate cake served with an Orange Muscat sabayon. Bananas Foster Cream Pie was outstanding with slices of banana, lots of cream and caramel sauce.
Or you can drink your dessert with a frozen drink (try Double Godiva Chocolate) or an enhanced coffee drink.
There are several ways that Cuvee Beach could make the dining experience more enjoyable. In addition to describing featured ingredients and offering variety in the appetizers, service could be more attentive.
Our server was personable, but mostly absent. Dishes were dropped off at the table without pausing or returning to find out if they were correct. When one dish was not, our server didn’t return until the next course was ready. Wine for one course was not served until the end of the course. And the server was not familiar with the food and misidentified ingredients.
I have liked Cuvee Beach since its opening, and have shared many wonderful meals with friends there. Some attention to service details, and minor changes in the menu would put Cuvee Beach back at the top of its game.
Cuvee Beach
36120 Emerald Coast Parkway
Destin, FL 32541
(850) 650-8900
Hours
Mon-Sat: 5 p.m. to midnight (closing time varies)
Price range
§ Appetizers: $9.50 to $12
§ Soup & salad: $6.50 to $10
§ Pizza: $11 to $13
§ Entrees: $18 to $32
§ Dessert: $6.95 to $8.95
Other information
§ Reservations recommended
§ Handicap accessibility
§ Children’s menu
§ Accepts all major credit cards
Colleen Coffield Sachs is restaurant reviewer for the Daily News. She dines unannounced at area restaurants for this column. You may write to her in care of the newspaper at P.O. Box 2949, Fort Walton Beach, FL 32549.
